Rent, Sell and Manage Properties in Florence and Tuscany
|NEWSLETTER – september 2009
"Scents and Sensibility" is the
theme of the month, with a perfume fair, grape harvest and
wine events, and back-to-school in the air. The summer Tuscan
sun burns just a little less brightly, as we move into one
of the busiest months of the year. The city fills back up
with Florentines returning toasty brown from the seaside,
semester abroad students and all the visitors who thought
they were travelling in the off-season.
September in Florence and Tuscany offers a gazillion events,
fairs and fun, so in addition to what we have outlined here,
keep your eyes out for posters with dates and times for some
great parties like Borgo San Lorenzos Sagra delle Ficattole
featuring fried bread puffs stuffed with various salumi (from
Friday 4 to Sunday 6 at Borgos Foro Boario area, every
evening beginning at 7:30 pm, just in case you were wondering).
In this issue: our September calendar of whats happening
in and out of town including new exhibitions, concerts, fairs
and markets in the countryside. To pinpoint locations mentioned
in our newsletter, copy the address onto the MAP FINDING space
From Lungarno della Zecca Vecchia SUZANNE, CORSO, SANDRA,
LORI, ANNA PIA, KIMBERLY and MARIO send greetings for a fabulous
Fall to everyone.
& FLACCOMIO REPORT
CORRI TO SIGN UP FOR SEPTEMBER 27THS CORRI
With registration beginning September 1, act soon to get your
official Corri La Vita, Ferragamo-designed T-shirt before
supplies run out, so you too, can spend all of September wearing
your shirt and publicizing the 7th edition of Corri La Vita,
a charity event to raise funds for conquering breast cancer.
A list of sign-up sites can be found below, but if anyone
should find it handier, keep in mind that registration and
T-shirt pick-up can be taken care of at the P & F office:
Lungarno della Zecca Vecchia, 30 (next to the Lucchesi Plaza
hotel), tel. 0552343354, office hours 9 a.m. straight through
to 5 p.m (just call if you would like to come outside of these
hours). The minimum donation to participate is Euro 10.00
which entitles one to a T-shirt (as long as supplies last).
The shirts come in sizes S-M-L and XL this year.
Corri La Vita will be held on Sunday September 27 at 9:30
a.m. Booths will open at 8 a.m. to accommodate sign-ups on
race day. The big news is that it will be in PIAZZA DEL SIGNORIA
and not Santa Croce as previously. The new mayor Renzi has
given Corri La Vita the main Piazza of Florence as a thank
you, and he will be there to start the race from Palazzo Vecchio.
Corri La Vita (literally translated means Run for Life) is
a walk/marathon organized in collaboration with LILT Italian
Cancer Society, CE.RI.ON Oncological Rehabilitation Centre
and File Italian Palliative Foundation. Participants may choose
between a 5.7 km. walk weaving through town from Piazza Signoria,
round the Duomo, past Piazza della Repubblica, over Ponte
alla Carraia, through the Oltrarno and the Boboli and Bardini
gardens, back across the Arno and finishing in front of Palazzo
Vecchio. The 10.2 km. run adds a leg out to Porta Romana and
Poggio Imperiale. The event features the exclusive opening
of selected historical sites along the route. This year there
will be visits to the Frescobaldi private garden, the courtyard
of Palazzo Rucellai, San Jacopo Church, cloister of San Pier
Martire and the Bardini museum.
Corri La Vita brings together friends, families, serious runners
and celebrities against the backdrop of historic Florence.
All are invited to participate: residents and non-residents,
from the most serious athletes to the most sedentary, but
also children, adults of any age, individuals, whole families,
groups, colleagues and friends
everyone is welcome.
Events to raise funds and awareness for Corri La Vita include
an auction sponsored by the exhibitors of the XXVI edition
of Biennale Antique Fair in Palazzo Corsini and Christies
Auction House. On September 26th Viscount David Linley, the
president of Christies Auction House will be presiding over
an auction of items donated by the exhibitors, with all proceeds
to be donated to Corri La Vita.
Every edition also brings a new color and design created especially
for the official Corri La Vita T-shirt, and this year, for
the first time, more than 2,400 virtual friends on Facebook
selected "Orange" because of its "energy, vitality
and warmth". The Salvatore Ferragamo fashion house donated
12,000 T-shirts to participants last year, with 14,000 being
projected for this 7th edition. The new shirt has already
enthusiastically been worn by a famous Italian football player
Filippo Inzaghi and his equally famous girl friend Alessia
Ventura, Sergio Munzi the actor, and winner of the popular
TV show "Island of the Famous", Senator Bobby Kennedy's
grandson Bobby Kennedy III who is directly involved in environmental
and civic issues, Umberto Pellizzari diver and host to numerous
underwater TV programs, Jimmy Ghione the combative reporter
of the famous TV program Striscia La Notizia and
Andrea Agresti comedian, to name just a few fans. These special
people join the other 170 world famous faces to be promoters
of our cause. Please visit the site www.corrilavita.it to
see the complete album of supporters.
Throughout September you can sign up for the WALK or RACE
at the following Florence locations:
LILT - Viale Volta, 173, tel. 05576939
Firenze Marathon - Viale Fanti, 2, tel. 055 5522957 055 5522957
L'Isolotto dello Sport - Via dell'Argingrosso, 69 A / B
Sign-up for the WALK at the following locations:
FILE - Via San Niccolò, 1, tel. 055 2001212, 055 2001212
Universo Sport - Piazza Duomo, 6/7/8r
Universo Sport - via Masaccio, 201 / d,
Universo Sport - via Sandro Pertini, 36 (corner of Viale Guidoni).
NEWS FROM ST. JAMES
On Saturday 19, come hear the new Willis organ. At 8 p.m.
St. James is proud to host a recital by Colin Walsh, organist
laureate, Lincoln Cathedral, England, including works by Bach,
Bossi, Dubois, Elgar, Franck, Meck, Vierne and Widor. Our
new organ is one of the finest instruments in Europe and was
installed in February of this year. Admission euro 10. St.
James Church, Via B. Rucellai, 9.Firenze, email: firstname.lastname@example.org.
We are happy to feature a few blurbs from Robert Nordvalls
entertaining site, where Suzannes friend Bob spends
words on everything from his fashion observations (slave sandals
are in this summer) to great nutshell round-ups of current
Italian politics, newsworthy events, views of Italy from inside
and out, and keen observations of things Italian.
Cell Phone vs. Computer - Italians are the number one users
of cell phones in Europe, but lag far behind in the use of
the computer. Why? One friend suggested it was because the
costs of access to the Internet are higher in Italy than elsewhere
and Wi-Fi is rarely seen. This could well be part of the reason.
Cell phone costs, however, are also generally higher in Italy
than in the rest of Europe. So I have an alternate theory.
Italians love to talk. This is a country also where personal
modes of communication are more primary than impersonal ones.
On the cell phone one talks (although there are also text
messages) and the interaction is more personal than on the
computer. Another friend came up with a third theory that
may explain the phenomenon more than any other: the incredibly
high frequency of intra-family communication in Italy, most
of which is by phone.
Why Things Go Slowly in Italy - The first thing to note is
that when you go to the bank, a post office, or a government
office, you might receive quick and efficient service. You
simply cannot count on this happening. Why? Here are the factors
I can determine:
1. Transactions tend to be more complex. You have to sign
more places, the clerk has to stamp whatever you sign, etc.
There is obviously a large premium on control
instead of efficiency.
2. The social is more important than the commercial. If the
clerk knows the person he is serving, a pleasant social conversation
may ensue while others wait in line.
3. (Related to number 2) The idea that time is money
may be prominent in Milan (the most businesslike Italian city),
but it is not pervasive in Tuscany, and I doubt if you see
much of it at all in the South.
4. Service is always focuses solely on the person in front
of you. If he has a very complex transaction which may able
to be facilitated by offloading it to another person or having
the customer step aside and organize his papers better before
they are processed, few clerks would think of doing so.
5. A job in Italy is something you have not something you
do. By that I mean Italians are less likely to be invested
in doing a job well. Once you have the job, job security is
very high. You arent going to get any more money by
doing the job better, and as long as you meet minimum standards,
you wont be fired. This attitude doesnt lead to
a customer service mentality.
In short, when the service you get is not good, there is no
single cause. It is part of a cultural matrix. Italians are
accustomed to waiting and dont seem to complain much
Slave Sandals - This is a fashion note. I hope that all my
woman readers who are using sandals are wearing slave sandals.
Those are the rage in Italy. They are sandals with at least
one strap around the upper ankle. I assume you could see them
if you looked at a DVD of Spartacus. For more of Bobs
wisdom see http://thisweekinitaly.com.
FRIENDS OF THE UFFIZI
You wont regret becoming a member of the non-profit
Friends of the Uffizi Association. The Association
supports the Florence art scene sponsoring important publication,
exhibition, acquisition and restoration projects. With an
annual (January to December) membership donation, the privileges
that members enjoy include free, unlimited access to Florences
most important museums including the Uffizi, Accademia, Bargello,
Pitti, Boboli gardens and more. Not only that, members may
skip any line, showing their membership card directly at the
museum entrance to gain immediate access (numbers permitting).
Members are also offered exclusive guided visits, invitations
to exhibits and cultural events and reduced price tickets
for concerts and performances in the most important theatres
of Florence. There are different ways to join.
Memberships include: Individual - valid for one adult (EUR
60.00), Family - two adults and two children under 18 years
old (EUR 100.00), Young - under 26 years old (EUR 40.00).
Find further information or join online at www.amicidegliuffizi.com.
The Amici degli Uffizi Welcome Desk is open Tuesday to Saturday
from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm in the Uffizi courtyard at no. 2.
The Amici main office is located in Via Lorenzo
il Magnifico 1. Tel. 055-4794422.
ACCADEMIA AND UFFIZI EVENING EXTRAVAGANZA
To celebrate the Robert Mapplethorpe exhibition, until Sept.
10 the Accademia Gallery will open with FREE entry during
special hours from 7:00 pm to 9:00 pm on Thursday evenings
only. Plus, until Sept. 29, both the Accademia and the Uffizi
will extend Tuesday evening opening hours until 9:00 pm (regular
entry fee) making for cool, crowd-free art enjoyment.
FOOTBAAAALLL!! by Simon Clark and Anne Brooks
Forza Viola!..........Were off and running. So far,
we havent been knocked out of anything and we havent
lost touch with the top of Serie A (but then we are only two
games into the Scudetto). In fact, we are unbeaten so far
this season. Let the fantasies begin..........
Champions League: Sporting Lisbon-Fiorentina DREW 2-2
Week 1: Bologna-Fiorentina DREW 1-1
Champions League: Fiorentina-Sporting Lisbon DREW 1-1
Week 2: Fiorentina-Palermo WON 1-0
Fun & Games. Unabashed by the drubbing administered by
our French friends from PSG, Fiorentina jetted
off to the Birmingham fleshpots for a final work-out against
Aston Villa a match of two sides knocking at the top-flight
door of their respective leagues. We lost by the games
single goal but Prandelli will have finished the happier coach;
we fluffed a penalty, struck the woodwork twice and looked
more and more a cohesive unit the longer the game went on.
Now it gets real with the Champions League qualifiers and
the start of Serie A.
Transfer Market. Rumours swirl as the deadline comes closer
but, amidst the mist, there has been a modicum of concrete
activity. Semioli has, as presaged last month, left for Sampdoria;
a tale is brewing about Stuttgart and Seville sizing up Kuzmanovic.
Definitely donning violet are midfielder Christiano Zanetti
(a classy internationalist surplus to Juves requirements;
if he can shrug off injury problems, hes a prime candidate
for the makeover Prandelli has given Mutu and Gilardino) and
Di Silvestri (an Under-21 international defender from Lazio).
We anticipate further activity; Prandelli sees the competition
intensifying and wants to strengthen the squad. Having qualified
for the group stages of the Champions League, were guaranteed
at least 11mn Euros income; the piggy bank will be replenished
- and we may need it. A nasty shadow is rising behind Adrian
Mutu. Il Fenomeno is being harried by the rich
burghers of Chelsea FC (owner: Russian oligarch Roman Abramov)
for 14mn Euros. Its not clear that Adrian has enough
small change lying about. People are wondering if the courts
might require him to pay up; if he cant, suspension
may be the order of the day. Here in Florence, team, club
and City are with Adrian (as well as the Italian players
Serie A. Once more we start sluggishly. Last month, your correspondents
were confident that three points at Bologna should be
in the bag. Dont act on any of our racing tips!
Even with star striker Marco Di Vaio out injured, Bologna
insisted on taking the lead and, naturally, it had to be a
goal from ex-Viola favourite, Osvaldo. We had the edge in
the second half but it still took us to the 64th minute before
Mutu blasted the equaliser into the roof of the net. We tried
but couldnt quite find a winner so thats
two points lost. Maybe the starting temperature 37
degrees wore the players down.....
.....Whatever, the home game with Palermo suddenly became
even more significant. Prandellis pre-match utterances
suggested that he was a tad concerned. Jovetic, who has started
the campaign with a rare thirst for goals, soothed concerns.
After hitting the Palermo post in the opening minutes, the
Montenegrin guided in what turned out to be the only goal
just short of the half-hour mark. For the rest, while Palermo
had their chances, it was mostly Fiorentina and we
do expect Frey to contribute two or three blinding saves in
each game! It was nice to see Walter Zenga, Palermos
coach, taking time after being beaten to wrap his arm around
Champions League. With no big-name signings and erratic pre-season
form, some have worried about Fiorentinas chances of
reaching the group stages. We neednt have been so anxious
but the team, in true Viola fashion, ensured that we were
biting our nails to the last! Away in Portugal, we looked
good; six minutes in, Vargas dances around a Sporting Lisbon
defender and drills us into the lead. They must teach Peruvian
children to shoot like that! Thereafter, we did our best to
lose, allowing Sporting to equalise with a full team on the
pitch and then to go ahead after a red card reduced them to
ten men. Eleven minutes to go and Gilardino produced one of
his trademark control-turn-and-shoot-inside-the-box-at-amazing-speed
episodes and we come away not only with a draw but also two
So, whats the best thing to do back at the Stadio? Yes
let Sporting dominate and go ahead on 35 minutes; they
lead 3-2 on aggregate and we are going nowhere in Europe.
One goal could make all the difference. Prandelli bravely
shuffles his pack at half-time. He introduces Jovetic who
sparkles and threatens before creating space brilliantly on
the edge of the penalty area to rifle home the strike that
takes us through on the away goals rule. Forza Jovetic!
Weve been rewarded with an uncertain group - Liverpool,
Olympic Lyons and the Hungarians, Debrecen. Everything to
play for. Debrecen are lying third in the Hungarian league
and have to be considered candidates for last place in the
group. Liverpool, the top-seeded team, have begun their domestic
season with two defeats in their first three games; they will
recover but may be missing Xabi Alonso more than expected.
Lyons, by contrast, are riding high and unbeaten but we startled
them before and we can do it again! It looks like two out
of Fiorentina, Lyons and Liverpool and there is no reason
to suggest that its anything other than an even race!..........Forza
Ticket information is available from the biglietteria
section of the clubs website [www.acffiorentina.it].
There is a plan of the stadium seating areas, prices and a
list of ticket outlets in Florence, including:
CHIOSCO DEGLI SPORTIVI, via degli Anselmi (between the Piazza
Repubblica post office and the Odeon cinema). Tel 055 292363.
BAR MARISA, via Carnesecchi 1. Tel 055 572723.
BAR STADIO, viale Manfredo Fanti 3r. Tel 055 576169.
ASS. SPORTIVA COLLETTIVO AUTONOMO VIOLA 1978, via Lungo lAffrico
10r. Tel 055 672580.
BAR H9, via dellAriento (south side of the central market).
ACF OFFICIAL TICKET-OFFICE, via Dupre 28 (corner of via Settesanti).
NUOVO BOX OFFICE, via Luigi Alamanni 39 (close to SMN station).
Tel 055 264321
THE FIORENTINA SCHEDULE:
This is going to be a tough, telling month. In Serie A, we
have two home and two away games. We must win the two at home
and the away match at Livorno; we could be excused for a draw
at Roma they are going well in the Europa Cup but have
lost both opening Serie A games (away at Genoa and at home
to Juve); we mustnt lose all three points in the capital.
We need a good start to our Champions group campaign. Last
year we gave Lyons a fright in France; we need to repeat the
medicine and make the most of a home tie with a misfiring
Liverpool. Six games in a month Prandelli will have
to manage his resources adroitly:
Week 3: (Florence): 13 September Fiorentina-Cagliari
Champions League: 16 September: Olympic Lyons-Fiorentina
Week 4: 20 September: Roma-Fiorentina
Week 5: (Florence): 23 September Fiorentina-Sampdoria
Week 6: 27 September Livorno-Fiorentina
Champions League (Florence): 29 September Fiorentina-Liverpool
RECIPE OF THE MONTH
PENNE SOGNO DI MEZZESTATE
This is a super-fresh, lemon and pine nut pasta dish, perfect
for a simple, summer first course.
1 cup toasted pine nuts
½ cup chopped parsley,
juice and grated zest of 1 lemon
20 cherry tomatoes, cut in half
1 cup grated, aged pecorino cheese
salt and freshly ground pepper
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
Cook 500 grams/1 pound penne (or other) pasta in generously
salted water until firm to the tooth (al dente).
In the meantime, smash half of the pine nuts to a cream
with a mortar and pestle (or drag them under the side of your
butcher knife). Stir pine nut cream and the remaining ingredients
together in your serving bowl. Toss hot pasta together with
sauce and serve immediately.
THUMBS UP THUMBS DOWN - Our Readers Right
Our Thumbs up, Thumbs down column is your
chance to toot the horn of businesses, events and those Florentine
situations that strike you as either wonderful or terrible.
Please note: all opinions are strictly those of our readers.
Lend us your thoughts!
I haven't been able to come back to Florence for a couple
years now unfortunately....after having lived there for 6-8
months at a time in about 2001-2004*. Your newsletter is always
so wonderful and brings back so many memories. Hopefully the
euro will not be as strong in the future, so that I can visit
*I arranged several different apartments through your office
at the time.
FIERUCOLA DEL PANE
Sat. 5 and Sun. 6, from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm, come to Piazza
SS. Annuziata and enjoy a fair that for the last 25 years,
has celebrated small-scale organic producers, sustainable
agriculture and artisan crafts.
EUROPEAN JEWISH HERITAGE DAY
On Sun. 6, the Synagogue and Museum of Jewish Art and History
will host a series of events celebrating European Jewish Heritage
Day 2009. At 10:00 am, a music-filled parade will depart from
Piazza della Signoria for the Synagogue on Via Farini, bringing
Yiddish music to the streets of Florence. At 10:30 the doors
of the Synagogue and garden will open with Hebrew cooking
demonstrations and tastings, plus puppet shows (at 12:00 and
4:00 pm), music, discussions and historical visits throughout
the day until the closing concert at 6:30 pm. Hop a shuttle
over to the Jewish cemetery on Viale Ariosto for a guided
visit of this nearly unknown Florentine monument. Free entry.
Donations accepted for food tastings. Synagogue and Museum,
via Farini 4, Tel. 055 245252. Info: email@example.com
Every Sept. 7th Florence celebrates the eve of the birth of
the Virgin Mary with a centuries-old fair called la Festa
della Rificolona. For the fest, children (and adults) purchase
or carefully construct paper lanterns to hang on long poles.
Come evening, neighborhoods around town are brightened with
groups carrying these lanterns, lit within by a burning candle.
Enjoy live music and fun starting around 8:00 pm in Piazza
Santa Croce, as a group gathers to cross the historical center
on foot, arriving in Piazza SS. Annunziata, the traditional
site of the Rificolona fair. Part of the fun involves
an all-out attack on the paper lanterns in the form of young
boys armed with pea shooters. The accepted end to the paper
lanterns comes as they are made to self-combust by a well-shot
spit ball. Go figure!
BIRTH OF THE VIRGIN MARY DUOMO CELEBRATION
Tuesday 8, enjoy an extraordinary panoramic view Florence
from over 100 feet up, as you take advantage of the one day
each year that the terraces of the Duomo are open for exploration.
The occasion celebrates the laying of the first stone of the
cathedral which took place on the feast of the birth of the
Virgin Mary 713 years ago. Also open for free visits, the
Opera del Duomo marble restoration workshop (Via dello Studio
23 red) where master artisans work to keep the marbles of
the Duomo in top condition. Top off the evening with a free
concert at 9:15 pm in the Baptistery entitled Three
Organs for Three Organists.
Fri. 11 to Sun. 13 Florences hippest convention space;
the Stazione Leopolda, fills with the glorious aromas of the
Fragranze trade fair. This trade event is dedicated to the
world of artistic and selective perfumery, and will showcase
fragrances, body care and wellness products, plus the latest
research in cosmetics and scented accessories. There will
be high quality crafts, and unique items from brands including:
Creed, Diptyque, Floris, Fragonard, Juliette Has A Gun, Lorenzo
Villoresi, Penhaligon's, Acqua Di Stresa, Prudence, Thermes
Marins Saint-Malo and Vero Profumo.
One of the features of this edition will be IL PROFUMO DEL
FUTURO [The Fragrance of the Future]; four talk shows
on Friday afternoon and Saturday morning. A panel of Italian
and international experts and celebrities from the worlds
of quality fragrances, wine-and-food, fashion, design and
communications will discuss topics such as: What will
the future smell like? Do we all have the same type of nose?
Does everyone like the same smells to the same degree? And
how do our sensations change over the years? Stazione
Leopolda. Viale Fratelli Rosselli. Hours: 10 a.m. 6
p.m. Free admission for members of the trade. Open to the
public on Saturday 12 only. Admission 10.00 euro.
NEXTECH ELECTRONIC MUSIC FESTIVAL
Thurs. 17 to Sat. 19 check out the Stazione Leopolda for the
4th annual Nextech Festival, dedicated to the world of electronic
music and digital arts. This year we have Swedish artist Adam
Beyer (19th), and the Modern Deep Left Quartet (19th) putting
together Mathew Johnson, Cobblestone Jazz and The Mole for
a live concert all about energy and invention. On the 18th
watch for DJ Troy Pierce, master of minimal house; and the
French group Masomenos known for their fashion creations and
their deep house beat. The full program is available on the
Nextech site: www.nextechfestival.com, along with ticket reservation
information. Stazione Leopolda, viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5.
Open 6:00 pm - midnight.
FIRENZE DEI TEATRI
From Wed 23 to Sun. 27 four days of non-stop theatre will
brighten the calendar of Florence events when nearly all of
Florences theatres open their doors and raise the curtain
on free shows, recitals, book presentations as well as aperitivi
and guided visits through historical backstages. The shows
will be geared toward both young and old. To access all included
events, simply purchase a TEATRICARD ticket, on sale for 7
euro at the theatres involved in the project.
In Florence some of the participating theatres are: Teatro
Cantiere Florida, Teatro di Cestello, Teatro Everest, Teatro
del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, Teatro della Pergola, Teatro
del Sale, Teatro Puccini, Teatro di Rifredi, Saschall and
Teatro Verdi ORT. In Bagno a Ripoli: Teatro Comunale di Antella;
in Calenzano: il Teatro Manzoni; in Scandicci: il Teatro Studio
di Scandicci and in Sesto Fiorentino: the Teatro della Limonaia.
The final calendar of events will be posted on www.firenzedeiteatri.it.
For further info: Firenze dei Teatri, tel. 055 2779362 055
FLORENCE WINE EVENT
From Fri. 25 to Sun. 27 Florences Oltrarno neighborhood
will shimmer with activity. Wander from Piazza Pitti, to Piazza
Santo Spirito, through Piazza della Passera and down via San
Niccolò to Piazza Demidoff, exploring the world of
Tuscan food and wine, wine, wine. Over 50 wine producers (including
Cecchi, I Collazzi, Antinori, Castello di Cacchiano and more)
will be present, pouring two of their favorite wines (a basic
best-seller, and a riserva). Here is a great chance
to taste and learn about Chianti, Brunello, Barolo and Morellino.
Watch for interesting whites as well, including several from
Italys north and northeastern provinces. On Friday from
3:00 pm to 10:00 pm, Sat. from 11:00 am to 10:00 pm and Sunday
from 11:00 am to 8:00 pm, with an inexpensive Wine Event Kit
participants will receive a glass, glass carrier and drink
card good for tastes of 16 wines at stands spread through
the main piazzas of the Oltrarno. The event will also feature
jazz presentations and al fresco dinners with theme menus.
BIENNALE INTERNATIONAL ANTIQUES FAIR
From Sat. 26 to Oct. 4, elegant Palazzo Corsini will host
Florences prestigious 50th anniversary edition of the
International Antiques Fair. Ninety of the worlds most
important antique dealers will gather in Florence from across
Italy, England, America, France, Switzerland, Spain and Monaco
offering a broad panorama of schools and styles of every epoch
and provenance. The show gives Florentines and visitors alike,
the chance to stroll through an elegant series of antique
tableaus, as each dealer strives to present their unique,
museum quality pieces (this year the collections feature a
Tiepolo and a Tintoretto). Friday 26 at 9:00 pm the fair will
host a charity auction in favor of Corri la Vita.
Palazzo Corsini, Lungarno Corsini, Via del Parione 11. Open
10:30 am - 8:30 pm. Admission: 10 euro. www.biennaleantiquariato.it
CORRI LA VITA - RUN FOR LIFE
On Sun 27, head to Piazza della Signoria and join the mini-marathon/walk
to help raise funds and awareness about the battle against
breast cancer. See above for details.
ORIGINAL LANGUAGE FILMS
The Odeon Cinema Sept. schedule was not available at press
time but films this month will start up again on Sept.
14 and should include Whatever Works by Woody Allen, The Informant
with Matt Damon, My Sisters Keeper with Cameron Diaz
and Cheri by Stephen Frears. The hours and times will soon
appear on the Odeon site www.cinehall.it
Theatre info: Teatro Comunale, Via Solferino 15. Tel. 055
27791. Teatro della Pergola, Via della Pergola 12/32, Tel.
055 2479651. Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99, tel. 055 212320.
Teatro Saschall , Lungarno Moro 3, tel. 055 6504112. Teatro
Goldoni, Via Santa Maria 15. Tel. 055 229651. Teatro Romano,
Fiesole, Tel. 055/59187. Mandela Forum, Viale Paoli 3, tel.
055 678841. Stazione Leopolda. Viale Fratelli Rosselli 5.
St. Marks Church. Via Maggio 16. Tel. 055 294764. Church
of Orsanmichele, Via dei Calzaiuoli. Tel. 055-210305. Teatro
Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel. 055 362067. Chiesa S.
Stefano al Ponte Vecchio, piazza S. Stefano 5. Teatro Politeama
Pratese, Via G. Garibaldi, 33 Prato. Tel: 0574/603758,
www.politeamapratese.com. Purchase tickets for theatre, concerts
and other events at the following ticket agencies: BOX OFFICE:
Via Alamanni, 39 (alongside the train station). Open Monday
3:30-7:30 pm, from Tuesday to Saturday 10:0-7:30 pm. Tel:
055/210804. Fax: 055/213112, INTERNATIONAL STUDIO, Chiasso
de Soldanieri, Tel. 055/293393, ARGONAUTA VIAGGI, Lungarno
Torrigiani 33/B, 055/2342777.9187. Many tickets can be pre-purchased
via www.ticketone.it, www.boxol.it, www.classictic.com/en
ORGAN CONCERT. Chiesa S. Maria de' Ricci, Via del Corso. Daily
at 9:15 pm; Saturdays at 6:00 pm.
FLUTE AND PIANO DUO. Palatine Gallery, Pitti Palace. Free
entry. 5:00 pm. (www.conservatorio.firenze.it)
THREE ORGANS FOR THREE ORGANISTS. Baptistery of San Giovanni.
PATTI SMITH I WAS IN FLORENCE. American rock legend
Patti Smith returns to Florence exactly 30 years after her
September 10th, 1979 concert, an event that stayed with her
for years. "At least once a day, every day since September
10, 1979, I remember that unforgettable concert, maybe the
best, and without a doubt the most powerful concert I have
given in my artistic career." This amazing artist rocked
the 70s and 80s with hits Because the Night,
written with Bruce Springsteen, and the anthem People
Have the Power. The 2009 event will be held in Piazza
Santa Croce. Tickets: 12 euro. 9:00 pm.
SAXOPHONE AND PIANO DUO. Palatine Gallery, Pitti Palace. Free
entry. 5:00 pm. (www.conservatorio.firenze.it)
POOH ANCORA UNA NOTTE INSIEME TOUR. Robby, Dodi, Stefano
and Red, the Italian Fab Four, continue in their
38 year career run. Tickets from 30 to 50 euro. Mandela Forum.
PIANO, VIOLIN AND CELLO TRIO. Palatine Gallery, Pitti Palace.
Free entry. 5:00 pm. (www.conservatorio.firenze.it)
RENAISSANCE CONCERT: ITALY AND FLANDERS. Santa Maria del Fiore
(Duomo). 9:15 pm.
THE TALLIS SCHOLARS. Peter Phillips conducting. Ensemble of
the Master Class of Renaissance Voices. Music of Palestrina,
Ingegneri, Isaac, Desprès. Teatro della Pergola. 9:15
EXHIBITS AROUND FLORENCE
ALBERTO ZORZI - UNUSUAL JEWELS
Until Nov. 1 the Museo degli Argenti (Silver Museum) at Palazzo
Pitti hosts the personal exhibition Alberto Zorzi - Jewelry,
silver, drawings 1973-2009. Zorzi is an artist-goldsmith trained
in Padova. The exhibition displays the works donated to the
Museo degli Argenti by Florentine silversmith Gianfranco Pampaloni,
a Zorzi collector: jewels that retrace thirty years of the
artist's activity and that are meant to be sculptures
to wear, design objects for daily use. The pieces created
by Zorzi, who works with the most varied materials (gold,
silver, platinum, copper, but also ebony, steel and quartz),
are fruit of his reinterpretation of the relationship between
form and space, not only in the pure and abstract sense, but
also in their relationship with the volumes of the human body
destined to wear them. The metals are either worked in thin
sheets or geometric solids; a dialog between concave and convex,
full and empty, light and dark, emphasized, in some cases
by the chromatic-pictorial effects of enamel.
The exhibition is open to the public daily, from Monday to
Sunday, with the following Pitti Palace schedule: September:
8:15am 6:30pm, October: 8:15am 6:30pm, then
5:30pm (coinciding with the shift from Daylight Savings Time),
November: 8:15am 4:30pm. Closed on the first and the
last Monday of each month. Tickets: 7 Euros (allowing visits
to the Museo degli Argenti, the Porcelain Museum, the Costume
Gallery and the Bardini Gardens).
FROM PETRA TO SHAWBAK - Archaeology of a Frontier
Until October 11, the Limonaia in the Boboli Gardens offers
an exhibition of the latest international archaeology investigations
and of the research conducted by the University of Florence
in these past twenty years in Jordan at the sites of Petra
and Shawbak. Petra was the capital of the mercantile empire
of the Nabataeans which controlled the incense route, then
conquered by the Romans, the Persians and the Arabs up to
the epoch of the Crusades, between 1100 and 1118, when king
Baldwin of Jerusalem built the two castles of Al-WuAyra
and Al-Habis. The Crusader century (between 1100
and 1189) revived the citys ancient function in southern
Jordan, as a frontier between the Mediterranean and Arabia,
but also between Syria and Egypt. The Castle of Shawbak, also
founded by Baldwin I, is one of the most spectacular medieval
settlements of the eastern Mediterranean. It is located 25
km north of Petra, which it replaced as capital of Transjordan
in the XII century. Studies conducted by the Italian archaeological
mission have restored this site to the great history of the
Mediterranean, along with its extraordinary monuments: the
cathedral of Saint Mary, the palace of Saladins grandson,
the monumental bastions of the late XIII century.
As of 2006, the Shawbak site has been the object of an innovative
international Italian-Jordanian agreement of scientific and
cultural cooperation between the Department of Antiquities
of Jordan and the University of Florence, which combines archaeological
research, conservative restoration and valorization. The exhibition
itinerary has been conceived in three sections: 1) the discovery
of an authentic capital that reinterprets the Crusader presence
of the Seigniory of Transjordan, and beginning a succession
that crosses the dynasty of Saladin; 2) documentation of the
diverse role performed by the frontier: from the ancient age
(Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine), Arab-Islamic (Umayyad, Abbasid,
Fatimid) up to the Crusader-Ayyubid and Mameluke ages, explored
through the archaeological observatory of the region and of
the sites of Petra and Shawbak; 3) the collection and publication
of visitors comments. Several films (from Indiana Jones
to Aleksandr Nevskij) will contribute to drawing the public
to the exhibition themes. Limonaia of the Boboli Garden. Daily
from 8:15 am to 7:30 pm. Closed the first and last Monday
of the month. Tel. 055 2654321.
DRAWINGS FROM THE LOUVRE
Until Sept. 14 the Museo della Casa Buonarroti presents a
show based on studies carried out by the Département
des Arts Graphiques at the Musée du Louvre on the vast
graphics collection (about three thousand drawings and thirty
thousand engravings) donated by Edmond de Rothschild to the
Louvre in the 1930s, that has led to the identification of
a remarkable number of works by Italian Renaissance masters.
For many years now, Fondazione Casa Buonarroti and the Département
des Arts Graphiques have had excellent scientific relations,
with the result that the Museo della Casa Buonarroti is now
putting on an exhibition of the highest level, with over ninety
items, almost none of which have been shown previously. A
particularly enchanting introduction to the exhibition is
given by a group of twenty-one International Gothic drawings,
visible from both sides. On the front, there are fabulous
images of ancient castles, and on the back architectural and
figure drawings of the finest draughtsmanship. The various
subjects include an Angel Defeating Vices, a Saint George
and the Dragon, a Crucifixion with God the Father and Mary
Magdalene, and Architecture with Peacock and Birds in Flight.
These are followed by nine niello works by famous artists;
then we find the main section of the exhibition, which consists
of about sixty-five sheets, with masterpieces by Pisanello,
Jacopo Salimbeni, Leonardo, Raphael, Fra Bartolomeo, Benozzo
Gozzoli, Maso Finiguerra, Niccolò dell'Abate, Perin
del Vaga, Battista Franco, Cavalier d'Arpino, and other great
names from Quattrocento and Cinquecento Italian art. Casa
Buonarroti, via Ghibellina 70, tickets: € 6.50, opening
hours: 9:30 a.m. 4:00 p.m., closed Tuesdays. Tel. 055
ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE, PERFECTION IN FORM
Until Sept. 27, an exhibition dedicated to the great American
photographer Robert Mapplethorpe, in the twentieth anniversary
of his death, illuminates the Accademia Gallery. For the first
time works of this renowned artist of photography are exhibited
with universal icons of art like the David, flanked by the
Prisoners, and paintings by masters from the fourteenth century
to the full Renaissance. From its very title, Robert Mapplethorpe,
Perfection in Form, the show expresses the profound principle
that associates Mapplethorpe with the great Renaissance masters
and, in particular, with Michelangelo: the search for balance,
the precision and clarity inherent to Form that
tends toward perfection by means of the geometric rigor of
volumes defined by line and sculpted by light.
In Mapplethorpes own words: I look for perfection
I am trying to capture what could be sculpture.
The photographer confessed his fascination for the art of
Michelangelo, stating: If I had been born one hundred
or two hundred years ago, I might have been a sculptor, but
photography is a very quick way to see, to make sculpture.
The material is grouped into four sections addressing the
single theme of Form; Geometry of Form, Fragment as Form,
Repeating Form, and Sculptural Form. Michelangelos David
and the four Prisoners, as terms of comparison, in addition
to four drawings and a wax model also by Michelangelo, reflect
off 93 works by Mapplethorpe that include human subjects as
well as numerous still-lifes, where Mapplethorpe confirms
his attention for the study of light and shadows on the object,
giving it a clear placement in space. Accademia Gallery. Via
Ricasoli 58. Open Tues-Sun 8:15 am-6:50 pm; last admission
30 min. before closing. Ticket: 10 euro. Closed Monday. Firenze
Musei Tel. 055. 2654321
SPLENDOUR AND REASON, ART IN 18TH CENTURY FLORENCE
Until Sept. 30 the Uffizi Gallery hosts a fascinating special
exhibit. With the extinction of the Medici dynasty (1743),
Florence did not lose its prestige as capital of culture and
the arts, thanks to the government of the Lorraines, who gave
the city the international profile required by Enlightenment
policies. This exhibition is the first overall panorama of
the principal artistic events of the eighteenth century in
Florence, with 120 paintings, sculptures, art objects and
furnishings, works from the entire century, recording the
changes in taste from the late Baroque period to Neoclassicism.
The show starts with commissions made by Cosimo III and the
Grand Prince Ferdinando de Medici, that opened the city
to foreign artists like Sebastiano Ricci and Giuseppe
Maria Crespi. They favored sculpture (with personalities like
Giovan Battista Foggini and Massimiliano Soldani Benzi), and
developed the manufacture of tapestries and semiprecious stone
Following the Medicis, Peter Leopold of Lorraine brought the
European version of Rococo and Neoclassicism to Tuscany, along
with the reformist spirit that accompanied the theories of
the Enlightenment even in the figurative arts. A new elite
of patrons took shape in Florence. In this context, the families
of the Florentine aristocracy held a conspicuous role: the
Gerini family for the diffusion of the veduta (landscape),
the Ginori family for their famed porcelains of Doccia, the
Corsini family for their constant relations with pontifical
Rome. In this climate of civic and cultural fervor, the Frenchmen
François-Xavier Fabre, Bénigne Gagnereaux, Louis
Gauffier and Jean-Baptiste Desmarais came to Florence, driven
from Pontifical Rome after the murder of the diplomat Nicolas
de Basseville. With them came the international version of
neoclassicism, thus contributing to the reform
of the portrait, the veduta and the historical painting, on
the eve of the instatement of the Napoleonic court (1799).
Uffizi Gallery. Ticket: 10 euro. Open Tuesday to Sunday 8:15
6:50 pm. Closed Monday. Firenze Musei Tel. 055. 2654321
GIOSTRA DEL SARACINO (Joust of the Saracen)
On Sun. 6, the Piazza Grande of Arezzo explodes with the principal
event of the Arezzo summer; a knights tournament highlighting
horsemen from each Quarter of the city, charging round a track
with a lance aimed at the rotating bust of a Saracen. By striking
its shield, the jousters attempt to win points for their neighborhood.
Once the Saracen is hit, it twirls round, threatening the
horseman with a heavy whip armed with lead and leather balls.
The Quarter obtaining the highest score wins the Golden
Lance, a prized trophy made each year by an Aretine
craftsman. Prior to the joust, a colorful procession, involving
more than three hundred participants, winds through the streets
of the city, accompanied by musicians and Arezzo's famous
"Sbandieratori" flag-bearing standard wavers, before
going into Piazza Grande, where the tournament takes place.
Arezzo, festivities from 8:00 am to nearly midnight. Tel.
0575 377262. www.lagiostradelsaracino.it
EUROPEAN JEWISH HERITAGE DAY IN SIENA
At 10:00 am on Sun. 6 the Sienese Synagogue will open its
doors to special visits and discussions. Throughout the day
until 5:30 pm, taste Jewish foods presented by the Association
of Jewish women in Italy. Siena, Vicolo delle Scotte 14, Viale
del Linaiolo, 17. Free entry. Donations accepted for food
MERCATINO DEL APRILANTE Artisan wares market
On Sun. 6 (morning to afternoon), Panzano-in-Chianti holds
their weekly town market expanded to include artisan booths
of all sorts. Basket weavers, honey and pecorino (sheeps
milk) cheese producers, hand-embroidered linen makers, boutique
wineries and antique dealers set up booths to market their
wares. To visit Panzano by car from Florence or Siena, take
Route 222, the pretty "Chiantigiana" highway passing
through the Chianti wine area. From the west, there is a road
connecting with the highway at Tavarnelle or S. Donato. It
is also possible to reach Panzano by SITA bus from Florence.
The trip takes about one hour.
RENAISSANCE DAYS IN SCAPERIA
On Sat. 5 and Sun. 6 the northern Tuscany town of Scarperia
turns the clock back 500 years, with minstrels, archers, guards
and noblemen strolling the ancient streets. Taste foods from
the era, and pay for them in florins, the only currency recognized
during these fun days. Saturday hours: 6:00 pm to midnight.
Sunday: 11:00 am to 11:00 pm. Info 055 8490434. www.prolocoscarperia.it.
Every Sept. 8 (di otto or eighth day) the city
of Scarperia celebrates its 1306 foundation by the Florentine
Republic. In 1953, the authorities of Scarperia decided to
revive the antique ritual of a political changing of the guard.
The celebration recreates a historical transfer of power from
Albertaccio di Andrea Corsini, the outgoing governor, to Carlo
di Roberto Acciaioli, the incoming governor, which occurred
in September 1545.
The modern festivities begin at the first shadows of night
fall (around 9:00 pm.), when the doors of Palazzo dei Vicari
are thrown open to allow the procession of the outgoing governor
and his train of more than one hundred followers to exit to
the sound of horns and drum rolls. They make their way among
the crowds lining the streets to meet the new dignitary who
will shortly take his position as governor at the Vicariate.
At the Florentine Gate, the two figures meet, the procession
which has come from Firenze escorting the new governor unites
with the local procession and they enter the village together.
Games are organized in honor of the new governor. The games
include knife-throwing, barrel race, tug-of-war, brick race
and climbing a slippery pole. Tuesday 8, Scarperia (Mugello),
from 8:00 pm to nearly midnight. Info: 055 8468165
CHIANTI CLASSICO WINE FAIR
From Fri. 11 to Sun. 13 Greve-in-Chianti, heart of in the
renowned Chianti Classico wine region, hosts a fabulous wine
fair. From 5:00 pm on Friday and from 11:00 am until 8:00
pm or so, enjoy music, wine tasting and Tuscan specialties
in the main square of town. Free admission.
VINO AL VINO (local producers wine fair)
Fri. 18 to Sun. 20 Panzano-in-Chianti holds a lovely, annual
festival bringing together wines from the many, excellent
Panzano area estates. There is music, a festive atmosphere
and loads of wine to be sampled. Twelve euros gets you a tasting
glass and tastes of wines from the estates: Carobbio, Casaloste,
Castello di Rampolla, Cennatoio, Fattoria La Quercia, Fontodi,
Il Vescovino, La Marcellina, La Massa, Le Bocce, Le Fonti,
Panzanello, Podere Le Cinciole, Vecchie Terre di Montefili,
Villa Cafaggio, Vignole and more. Starts Friday at 12:00 am,
ending Sunday evening at 8:00 pm.
GRAPE HARVEST FESTIVAL OF IMPRUNETA
On the afternoon of Sun. 27, Imprunetas four neighborhoods
(rioni) compete in a pretty spectacular display of hometown
pride. After more than a month of secret preparations, each
neighborhood presents a float decorated with grapes and papier-mâché,
accompanied by swirling, whirling choreographed crowds of
participants in a heartfelt competition for first prize. The
show culminates two days of wine market/food fair promoting
the local Chianti from the Colli Fiorentini area of the Chianti
region. For info and tickets call 055 2036408.
EXHIBITS AROUND TUSCANY
GENIUS & PASSION, THE RESTORATION OF LIPPI'S FRESCOES
Over five centuries ago, Filippo Lippi ascended three stories
of scaffolding in the dark recesses of Pratos cathedral.
Today, the three-tiered frescoes, which cover the walls and
vaults of the main chapel with stories of St. John the Baptist
and St. Stephen, are visible in renewed splendor after seven
years of restoration. Small, guided tours of the fresco cycle
now allow the public to come face to face with Lippi. Prato
Cathedral. Open Mon. to Sat. 10:00 am to 5:00 pm. Admission:
4 euro with audio guide. Small, guided tours available by
calling 0574/24112. www.restaurofilippolippi.it
MAN RAY, THE FIFTY FACES OF JULIET, 1941-1955
From Sun. 13 until Dec. 6, Luccas Center of Contemporary
Art will feature 50 works by Man Ray, one of the most unpredictable,
genial, brilliant, anti-conventional, contradictory, impertinent,
challenging and eclectic figures in the history of 20th century
art. In this show, created in collaboration with the Marconi
Foundation of Milan, fifty portraits of the artist's wife
Juliet Browner, who he photographed between 1941 and 1955,
will be presented. The Fifty Faces of Juliet was conceived
by Man Ray in the early 1950's as a book in honour of his
wife Juliet, but also as a selection of photographic works
begun in Los Angeles in 1941. It presents fifty photographs,
original prints using different techniques and styles, some
hand-coloured, in various sizes that Man Ray dedicated to
Juliet, the definitive muse of his life.
Many of the techniques invented by Man Ray, such as solarisation,
over-development, dithering (retinatura) and grains obtained
in the shooting or printing phase, were applied in the series
with Juliet. Since painting remained his great passion, he
thought it was a good idea to touch up his photographs with
coloured and treated pastels drawn directly onto the paper.
It is for this reason that the series The Fifty Faces of Juliet
is unique in its kind; in fact it shows all the abilities
of an artist who uses every expressive means at his disposition
to reach the sublimations of his own ideas. The portraits
of Juliet are for the most part informal; some are focused
on her face: faces that are luminous and gathered out of time,
superimpositions of photographs that are dreamy and romantic,
sensual and daring. Others are refined investigations into
the silhouette of the female form: never ordinary, rather
classical in the poses and similar to works by painters like
Ingrès or Vermeer.
The Fifty Faces of Juliet is the story of a love and of a
lifetime. Fifty portraits in which the image of Juliet is
each time invented, rewritten, modified, exalted with the
mark of the pencil, a graphic effect, superimposition of a
piece of cloth, a transparent veil, a mask obscuring the face,
her face framed with a large winged hat, revealed in her nudity,
transformed into an embroidery. Lu.C.C.A. - Lucca Center of
Contemporary Art. Via della Fratta, 36, 55100 Lucca. Hours:
Tues. to Sun. 10:00 am to 7:00 pm. Closed Monday. Tel. O583
571712. firstname.lastname@example.org, www.luccamuseum.com
All our best,
The Staff of Pitcher and Flaccomio
Newsletter compiled by Kim Wicks
Pitcher & Flaccomio Newsletter Copyright 2009
Direttore responsabile Mario Spezi - Pubblicazione con
iscrizione n. 5697 del 23\01\09 presso il Tribunale di Firenze