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IMPORTANT INFORMATION » Our Monthly Newsletter ITA -

Palazzo Pitti

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Rent, Sell and Manage Properties in Florence and Tuscany
NEWSLETTER November 2013

In November, Florence is hosting the largest cinema event in Italy – The 50 Days of International Film Festival – and then from the 20th to the end of the month you will be so busy that you will have to sleep for the first week of December. We hope that you dive in with gusto (and Happy Thanksgiving) from SUZANNE, CORSO, BEI, LESLIE, LORI, ANNA PIA, VANNI, ANN and MARIO.


A NOVEMBER NOTE FROM SUZANNE – Hold the Date and Donate

Ciao everyone! We need your help. On December 8th each year the American International Women’s League organizes a Christmas bazaar, which is held at the ex-Scuderie Reali near Porta Romana. I am asking you all to think about what you would like to do to help make this a fabulously rich affair.

This Christmas Bazaar needs your clothing to sell, so please go through your closets (and those of your significant other, plus your kids, etc.) to collect the things you no longer need. We are looking for all types of clothing plus purses, gloves, scarves, evening gowns, cocktail dresses, jewelry (diamonds, or not) and hats. Another idea…. ask your local dry cleaner if they have anything that their clients have not collected over the past year, perhaps they would donate abandoned clothing. Naturally, please take a moment to be sure that all you are donating is clean and in good condition, then give me a buzz or contact AIWL at http://www.ailoflorence.org/?page_id=570 . Children are also on our list, so if you have children, grandchildren or know of any child living close by, please ask them for all of the toys that they have outgrown. Here again they must be complete and in good working order.

As always there is a lottery with of wonderful prizes and tickets are already flying out the door, so call Pitcher & Flaccomio at 0552343354 for tickets QUICKLY.

Don't forget to mark the date and place (Dec. 8 from 10am to 5pm, at the La Pagliere - Viale Machiavelli 18) on your calendar so you can come and replace everything you donated and have fun doing it! There will, of course, be food and drinks donated by the ELFINS of General Electric. I very much look forward to hearing from you, as we do NEED all the help we can get to make this event a great success.



( tel. 055 2343354, fax 055 5609916, info@pitcherflaccomio.com )


P&F PICK APARTMENT RENTAL FOR NOVEMBER – Elegant Apartment in Quiet Neighborhood

This classy apartment on the east end of the historic center near the San Ambrogio Market is furnished with antiques and occasional modern pieces. The floors are Venetian graniglia and the ceilings and door are decorated. There are Murano glass chandeliers. The bathroom is tiled and spacious. Linen and kitchenware are supplied. The apartment is all-electric for heat, air-conditioning and the kitchen, which is small with and electric stove and oven, water heater, microwave oven, and washing machine. There is an internet connection, and night guard surveillance.

For more information click this link.


A world of film comes to Florence each autumn, with hundreds of movies, shorts and documentaries from around the globe during the 50 Days of International Cinema festival. Most of the films are either in English or with English subtitles, so forget fresh air and exercise as the cold nights draw in—staying indoors and staring at the big screen has never been so rewarding. Sitting comfortably? Let the show begin!

LGBT cinema takes centre stage during the Florence Queer Festival (November 6–12), which will open with a burlesque show by the eccentric Sylvie Bovary, winner of the Fish & Whips Burlesque Contest in Berlin. Watch out for the European première of the short film Luca, the story of a gay man who, to his horror, wakes up from a coma to discover that he is straight, as well as international hit The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, which follows the journey of two drag queens and a transsexual woman across the Australian outback.

The Festival continues with the Contemporary Art Film Festival, Florence Indian Film Festival, Documentary Film Festival, Finnish Film Festival, New Italian Cinema, and Ethono-Music Film Festival. These films all are screened at the Odeon Cinema Theater in Piazza Strozzi. Info: www.50giornidicinema.com.

PICK EATERY FOR NOVEMBER – L'Osteria di Giovanni

For over half a century in Florence, the name Latini has been associated with classic Tuscan food and wine. Giovanni Latini and his family, however, have created something completely different from the old family trattoria. Modern art on the walls, widely spaced tables dressed in fine linen, a sophisticated wine list, and Tuscan cuisine with an up-dated concept make this a restaurant to savor and enjoy.

Giovanni is a welcoming host, who serves as many native Florentines as he does visitors from abroad. A plate of tiny mouth-watering warm fried bread coccoli (cuddles) and cold flutes of Prosecco are placed on the table immediately for munching and sipping while perusing the menu where every dish has a helpful description in English or Italian.

Caterina, Giovanni's daughter, attended L'Ecole des Arts Culinaires and the French Culinary Institute of New York. Caterina insists on the freshest ingredients as well as adding a refined modern interpretation to traditional recipes. Popular dishes include salmon cured with pink peppercorns, served with sour cream and melon, tortelli stuffed with pear and pecorino with leek and paprika sauce, pici with sausage and kale, and lamb slow-cooked with artichokes.

Although there are a couple of traditional desserts on the ever-changing seasonal menu, Giovanni's wife Carol has delighted everyone by introducing a warm citrus cake and a light pineapple carpaccio with red peppercorns. Dinner will average 40 to 50 euro per person, depending on the choice of wine.

L'Osteria di Giovanni, Via del Moro, 22, Tel. +39 055 284897, www.osteriadigiovanni.com

Open for lunch on the weekend and seven evenings a week for dinner.

Reservations recommended.

Note: Osteria di Giovanni will have a fabulous Thanksgiving dinner with all of the trimmings. Check with them for 2013 at https://www.facebook.com/losteriadigiovanni .

Thanksgiving Note: Check also with St. James American Church for special services and dinner. Also, Il Palagio restaurant at The Four Seasons Hotel should be serving a holiday menu.

BEST BOOK FOR NOVEMBER – The Pope's Daughter: The Extraordinary Life of Felice della Rovere by Caroline P. Murphy

The illegitimate daughter of Pope Julius II, Felice della Rovere became one of the most powerful and accomplished women of the Italian Renaissance. Now, Caroline Murphy vividly captures the untold story of a rare woman who moved with confidence through a world of popes and princes.

Using a wide variety of sources, including Felice's personal correspondence, as well as diaries, account books, and chronicles of Renaissance Rome, Murphy skillfully weaves a compelling portrait of this remarkable woman. Felice della Rovere was to witness Michelangelo paint the Sistine Chapel, watch her father Pope Julius II lay the foundation stone for the new Saint Peter's, and see herself immortalized by Raphael in his Vatican frescos. With her marriage to Gian Giordano Orsini – arranged, though not attended, by her father the Pope – she came to possess great wealth and power, assets which she turned to her advantage.

While her father lived, Felice exercised much influence in the affairs of Rome – even negotiating for peace with the Queen of France – and after his death, Felice persevered, making allies of the cardinals and clerics of St. Peter's and maintaining her control of the Orsini land through tenacity, ingenuity, and carefully cultivated political savvy. She survived the Sack of Rome in 1527, but her greatest enemy proved to be her own stepson Napoleone. The rivalry between him and her son Girolamo had a sudden and violent end, and brought her perilously close to losing everything she had spent her life acquiring.

With a marvelous cast of characters, this is a spellbinding biography set against the brilliant backdrop of Renaissance Rome. The book is based on both archival and secondary sources, but there is much about Felice that is unknown, including even the year of her birth, and Murphy fills in some of the blanks with speculation. This biography is a vivid depiction of the society and circumstances in which she lived.


Alex Rider, the 14-year-old spy and adventurer from Stormbreaker (2001), Point Blank (2002), Skeleton Key (2003), and Eagle Strike (2004), is back. "Go to Venice. Find Scorpia. And you will find your destiny," Alex was told by a dying man at the end of Eagle Strike. And so we find him; in Venice, with his friend Tom, looking for clues to his father's identity and death. Was he an agent of M16, the secret world organization that has used Alex before? Or was he a tool of Scorpia, the powerful international criminal agency that specializes in sabotage, corruption, intelligence, and assassination? And which are the bad guys? Alex loses track as he is recruited by the beautiful and deadly Julia Rothman, one of the nine executives of Scorpia, to be trained at their Venetian island school for assassins and to take part in a plot to kill thousands of 12 and 13-year-olds in England.

Caught between shifting allegiances and different versions of his father's life and death, Alex outwits and outfights everybody as the plot rockets along to a smash finish that will leave readers breathless and shocked.

Of course, Alex Rider saves the day, but not without psychological mind gaming and fighting that will bring readers to the edge of their seats and keep them there until the final page. These titles are perfect for James Bond wannabes and reluctant readers. The race through Piazza San Marco is worth the cover price. No prior knowledge of the previous books is necessary, as Horowitz drops clues from previous adventures.

MUST-SEE EXHIBIT FOR NOVEMBERRussian Avant-Garde, Siberia And The East

Showing until 19 January 2014 at the Palazzo Strozzi

The Palazzo Strozzi, is hosting The Russian Avant-garde, Siberia and the East. It's the first international exhibition to examine the fundamental importance of the Oriental and Eurasian connection to Russian Modernism, follows the destinies of Russia’s self-proclaimed “Barbarians” in their search for new sources of artistic inspiration. Neolithic stone figures, Siberian shaman rituals, popular Chinese prints, Japanese engravings, Theosophical doctrine and Indian philosophy are some of the elements which inspired Russia’s new artists and writers as they developed their aesthetic and theoretical ideas just before and after the Revolution of October, 1917.

The exhibition demonstrates how modern Russian culture experienced a deep attraction to—and an apprehension of—the exotic, the unknown and the “other”, qualities which artists and writers identified with the spirit of the taiga, the virgin territories of desert and steppe and the “otherness” of Oriental culture.

Emphasizing the key role that radical Russian artists played in the development of Modern art over a century ago, the exhibition underscores their complex relationship with the Orient (both the Russian East and the Far East). Léon Bakst, Alexandre Benois, Pavel Filonov, Natalia Goncharova, Wassily Kandinsky, Mikhail Larionov, Kazimir Malevich and other prime movers of the avant-garde were deeply aware of the importance of the East and contributed to the rich debate (“West or East?”) which left a profound and permanent imprint upon their creative imagination. In addition to the heroes of the Russian Avant-garde, the exhibition also acquaints us with other, less familiar, but still original, artists of the time such as Nikolai Kalmakov, Sergei Konenkov and Vasilii Vatagin, many of whose works are being shown in the West for the first time.

See more: http://www.palazzostrozzi.org/Sezione.jsp?idSezione=1768

Tel. + 39 055 2645155

Opening times: Daily 9.00-20.00, Thursdays 9.00-23.00

Tickets sold until one hour before closing time.

Tickets: Full price € 10.00



A new exhibit of the painting of the Impressionists is at Palazzo Pitti exhibit in the Galleria d’Arte Moderna. Gathered in the ballroom of the Pitti Winter Apartments are twelve Impressionist masterpieces on loan from the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, in addition to two works by Camille Pissarro and another by Alphonse Maureau permanently housed in Florence’s modern art collection.

The French works came to Florence through a cultural exchange between the two museums. The exhibit I Macchiaioli: Des impressionistes italiens at the Musée de l’Orangerie in Paris over the summer was enriched with several pieces from the Galleria d’Arte Moderna and explored the intriguing nexuses between the two movements.

The exhibition opens with ‘En plein air’: here are the landscapes, the light, the gardens and the water. Claude Monet’s La Seine à Port-Villez (c. 1890) is featured, one in the series of 18 canvases the artist painted of the area. A letter explains that Monet painted it one windy summer’s day after two months of bad weather. Also in this section is Auguste Renoir’s startling Étude: Torse de femme au soleil (1875–76).

The second section, ‘Interiors,’ features Degas’s ballerinas and Cézanne’s still-lifes, and La liseuse by Henri Fantin-Latour (1861). This section also includes quotes from leading French novelists of the time—Émile Zola, Honoré de Balzac and Guy de Maupassant—which capture something of the Impressionists’ spirit.

Impressionists at Palazzo Pitti

Until January 5, 2014

Galleria d’Arte Moderna



The world-renowned Russian Ice Stars bring to the Mandela Forum theatre a new adaptation of Beauty and the Beast and then, Peter Pan, the fantasy adventure by J.M. Barrie.

On November 22 and 23, romance, tragedy, drama and magic as Beauty Belle falls in love with the Beast and breaks the spell on the cursed Prince... The Russian Ice Stars deliver a dazzling interpretation of this enchanting story loved by all ages, a treat for the whole family.

A must see for lovers of good music, ice dance, ballet and spectacular feats. Heart-stopping and jaw dropping, the high-speed combination of extraordinary skating beautifully staged and breath-taking aerial feats, will leave you mesmerised.

On November 24 Wendy, Michael and John are visited in the nursery by Peter Pan himself, who teaches them to fly with the help of Tinker Bell, and takes them on a magical journey to Never Land.

Packed with all your favorite characters including Tiger Lilly, Mr Smee and the vengeful Captain Hook whose appetite for revenge is perfectly recreated in this spectacular adaptation on ice.

“So come with me, where dreams are born, and time is never planned. Just think of happy things, and your heart will fly on wings, forever, in Never Never Land!”

See http://www.wildroseltd.co.uk/index.html for details


If you aren’t exhausted from the 2013 CORRI LA VITA, try the 30th Florence Marathon On Sunday, 24 November.

Step by step all along its 42 kilometers and 195 meters you are surrounded by centuries of art, history and culture, a unique emotion that can only be experienced by those who run in Florence. Year after year, thousands of sportspeople and enthusiasts from all over the world come to participate in this classic race on the last Sunday in November. This great event in Florence has increased immeasurably recently so much so that they expect more than 10.500 participants in 2012. Official web site: http://www.firenzemarathon.it/index.php?lang=en

This extraordinary increase in participation also testifies to the constant attention given to the organization of the race. Florence Marathon is now the second Italian marathon (after Rome), and among the 20 most important marathons in the world. The route takes you by all those landmarks of singular beauty that have made Florence famous worldwide: views over the enchanting hills and countryside, and passing right by the Cathedral Square, Piazza della Signoria, Ponte Vecchio (to mention only just a few of historical importance), before entering the majestic Piazza Santa Croce. The road is entirely asphalted and ramp-free, except for the short, slightly sloping stretch of road at the start, and these characteristics make it a particularly fast route appreciated by runners.

For all the info you need:


SO YOU STILL WANT TO RUN? – Every Wednesday Run or Walk With Others

Inspired by the Corri La Vita, Firenze Corre has be created so that every Wednesday a group will run or walk through Florence. The first outing was on October 16, meeting at 7:30pm at Piazza del Duomo and returning back there at 9pm. It was a rousing success. You understood that right – get off your tush every Wednesday until 11 June 2014.

“No matter how slow your pace, you will always be faster than those who remain on the couch” is the motto of Firenze Corre. Find out more information on the web site at: www.firenzecorre.it . Or stop by Universo Sport in Piazza del Duomo. There is a fee for participation.

CYCLING THROUGH THE PAST – Antique Bicycles on Display

The history of the bicycle abounds in surprises. Until November 17, he exhibition Cycling Through the Past: Stories of Men and Trades at the Museo Galileo is divided into two sections and shows some of the most significant stages in the development of two-wheeled vehicles. In the first section, antique bicycles from the museum’s collections – which are usually kept in storage – are now on display. Heavily damaged by the 1966 flood in Florence and restored in the last 10 years, they were donated by various collectors.

Opening hours: 9:30am – 1pm

Tuesdays 9:30am – 1pm

Entrance fees (Museo Galileo)

Full € 9,00

6-18 years old, over 65 years old € 5,50


From November 21 – 24, at Fortezza da Basso, all types of craftwork and handmade arts will be celebrated at Florence Creativity. Knitting, spinning, cake decorating, ceramics, decoupage, scrapbooking, quilting, and so much more. Workshops and holiday gifts are the focus. See http://www.florencecreativity.it for details.

FLORENCE QUEER FESTIVAL 2013 – Art, Literature and Music

The Queer Festival starts November 6, including Queer Art and Queer Lit (See above for Queer Film).

Queer Art until 23 November

The big news this year is the exhibition of The Pink Choice by Maika Elan, Vietnamese photographer and winner of the World Press Photo Award 2013, one of the most important awards in the context of photojournalism. In exhibition runs until November 23 at IED - Istituto Europeo di Design in Florence (free admission), with 32 photos depicting scenes of daily intimacy of Vietnamese couples (Opening Oct. 26 at 6pm with a presentation by the artist).

Corpovisione Sandra Tapes at Ireos at Via de’ Serragli, 3 is an exhibition of selected works by two photographic projects, one in color and one in black and white, both using the body to depict travel and other forms and surfaces other than skin. (Mon-Thurs 18-20, free admission. Until December 1).

Queer Book until 23 November

In October, the cycle of literary meetings of the Florence Queer Festival begin at the IBS Bookstore and at the Villarosa Center (free admission).


Infoline: 347 8553836 Ireos: 055 216907; Tel. 055 240397

info@florencequeerfestival.it – www.florencequeerfestival.it

IED – Istituto Europeo di Design- Via M. Bufalini 6/r – t. 055 29821 – 055 2645685

Ireos – Via de’ Serragli, 3 – t. 055 216907

IBS Bookshop – Via De’ Cerretani, 16 r – t. 055287339

Exhibition hours The Pink Choice Maika Elan at IED Florence: Monday to Thursday from 9 to 21.30, Friday 9-18, Saturday 10-18


November 8-10, the ancient Fortezza da Basso of Florence will host more than 300 world-renowned tattoo artists, shows and eclectic musicians who will enchant an audience of curious and urban fashions lovers in a weird and wonderful way.

Florence looks forward to the sixth edition of the Florence Tattoo Convention. In the wake of the resounding success of previous editions, the association Firenze Indelebile will present the best of the international scene in the world of tattoo and body piercing.

The event will take place in the large lower floor of the pavilion Spadolini and will be presented as usual by Leela Huma who is going to delight audiences with original performances and introduce the artists representing the U.S.A, Japan, Brazil, Venezuela, Argentina, Chile, China, Canada, Tahiti, Mexico and most of the European states.

Many will be true masters of tattoo who will perform real works of art on the skin of loyal customers using traditional instruments. Again this year, tattoo artists and the public will be able to participate in the seminars.

Do not miss the exhibition session "Human Installation 0: Chrysalis" (Kyrahm and Julius Kaiser), in which a person will be locked up in a cocoon for 27 hours with web link. Finally every night DJ sets, concerts and typical Tuscan cuisine will be the backdrop to the event that every year opens its doors to more than 10,000 spectators.


The Fulgor is starting to make one of their theaters available for Original Sound movies , seven days a week, three show times a day. Call to find out what is showing in English. Via Maso Finiguerra – Tel. 055 238 1881


Check the web site http://www.cinehall.it/ for updated information or stop by the theater for a brochure. The Fifty Days of Film festival starts at the end of October. Located in Piazza Strozzi.


The usual Odeon Cinema Original Sound film selection moves to the Asta 2 Cinema in Piazza Beccaria for the month of November.

ORIGINAL LANGUAGE FILMS – Talking Movies at the British Institute

The Talking Movies Series at the British Institute Library: Every Wednesday at 8:00 pm, the Sala Ferragamo in the Institute's Harold Acton Library hosts a film, followed by discussion. The British Institute Library, Lungarno Guicciardini 9.

Check the web site at www.britishinstitute.it/en/events/default.asp for times, dates, and detailed information or stop by the library for a brochure.

The international success of movies from Australia and New Zealand is a relatively new development in the countries' long histories of cinema production, and the Post-Modern, Post-Colonial ethos of the 1970s seems to have resulted in something of a flowering of directorial, as well as acting talent. Australian and New Zealand actors in particular are nowadays household names. The Tolkien adaptations of recent years have also made stars of antipodean landscapes. But landscapes are only a part of the rich cultural heritage of Australia's Aboriginal, and New Zealand's Maori, pasts, and filmmakers in the last 40 years or so have chosen to investigate the difficult and sometimes traumatic social and cultural interface between the diverse inhabitants of the region.

Jane Campion's The Piano gives us yet another glimpse into the colonial past in a well-received and memorable film. The undeniable talent of Baz Luhrmann is first aired in what may be his best film to date, Strictly Ballroom, some of the glitz of which is transferred to the riotous The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, with its star turn from Terence Stamp. On the more serious side, social disharmony is in full view in Once Were Warriors, and the recent wave of crime thrillers has its origins perhaps in Lantana.

Wednesday, November 06, 20.00

Film: The Piano (Jane Campion, AUS/NZ, 1993) with Holly Hunter, Harvey Keitel, Sam Neill, Anna Paquin

Wednesday, November 13, 20.00

Film: The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert (Stephan Elliott, AUS/UK) 1994 with Hugo Weaving, Guy Pearce, Terence Stamp

Wednesday, November 20, 20.00

Film: Once Were Warriors (Lee Tamahori, NZ, 1994) with Rena Owen, Temuera Morrison, Mamaengaroa Kerr-Bell

Wednesday, November 27, 20.00

Film: Lantana (Ray Lawrence, AUS, 2001) with Anthony LaPaglia, Geoffrey Rush, Barbara Hershey


Every Wednesday at 18.00 from September to June there is a lecture, concert or other event in the Sala Ferragamo in the Harold Acton Library followed by an informal drinks reception.

Wednesday, November 06, 18.00

Lecture: Janice Graham

Romanticising the Brontës and the Shelleys

Janice Graham, raised in Kansas and now living in Florence, has written a novel about the Brontë sisters (Romancing Miss Brontë) and is working on another about Mary Shelley, née Wollstonecraft, author of Frankenstein: or, The Modern Prometheus (1818).

Wednesday, November 13, 18.00

Lecture: Judith Testa

Webs of desire and violence: power politics and sexual politics in three works of Florentine renaissance art

Judith Testa, whose new An Art Lover’s Guide to Florence is published by Northern Illinois UP, analyses three iconic Florentine sculptures, two by Donatello and one by Cellini.

Wednesday, November 20, 18.00

Lecture: John Hoenig

Laszlo Hoenig, a Hungarian designer in Mayfair: the Italian connection

Laszlo Hoenig, the Austro-Hungarian architect, interior designer and cabinet-maker who studied at the Bauhaus and practised for many years in London, is the subject of an illustrated talk by his son John.

Wednesday, November 27, 18.00

Lecture: Margherita Calderoni

Giovanni Boccaccio after 700 years

The 700th anniversary of the birth in Certaldo of Giovanni Boccaccio (1313-1375), author of the Decameron, is the occasion for a lecture by Margherita Calderoni, the London-based journalist who spoke for us last year about Amerigo Vespucci.



The Amici della Musica of Florence presents various concerts at the Teatro della Pergola. Works by Haydn, Schubert, Bach, Mozart and Beethoven are only a small sample of what will be performed. See the schedule for concerts at http://www.amicimusica.fi.it/.

Amici della Musica - Concert Season Highlights for November – Kelemen Quartet (Nov. 2), Emerson Quartet (Nov. 9 - 10), Jan Lisiecki (Nov.16), Selmer Saxharmonica (Nov. 17), Maria Joao Pires and Antonio Meneses (Nov. 23) , and the Quartet of Cermona (Nov. 24).

Teatro della Pergola, Via della Pergola, info: 055/609012 – 055 607440 - 055 2264333, and www.amicimusica.fi.it


The Maggio Musicale Festival is back with a autumn series! The 77th season of Florence's historic opera company has been one of the best yet. The Maggio spent the September in Spain, receiving rave reviews everywhere the orchestra and chorus performed. The New Florence Opera House only makes the experience better.

Find the calendar here: http://www.maggiofiorentino.it/calendar

Ticket Office Teatro Comunale

Corso Italia 16 - Firenze - fax: +39 055 287222

Tues. - Fri. 10:00-16:30 & Sat. 10:00-13:00

Tickets on line



Not to worry! … here are a bunch of events or exhibits that will still be happening in late November and December:

ARTISTS INFLUENCING ARTISTS – Florence and Venice Share A History

Free exhibits for centuries-old art are rare in Florence so take advantage of a free exhibit at the Palazzo Ricasoli-Firidolfi, via Maggio 5. Masterpieces from Florence and Venice are on display, which show the influence Venice had on Florentine painting during the seventeenth century, and the rich elegance of Florentine works during the last days of the Grand Dukes of Tuscany. The exhibit is entitled Fra La Natione Fiorentina e Veneziana; learn more at www.frascionearte.com.

Until December 21, Palazzo Ricasoli-Firidolfi, via Maggio 5

A SHORT VISIT OF ITALIAN ART ON LOAN FROM PARIS – Sold by Bardini, Now Shown at His Villa

Most visitors do not know where Villa Bardini is located, but this November and December they should take a energetic walk up through the Bardini Garden to the villa at the top (of course, you can also hike up Costa San Giorgio and skip the cost of the garden ticket). An excellent exhibit awaits. Until December 31, 2013, Il Rinascimento da Firenze a Parigi: Andata e ritorno (The Renaissance from Florence to Paris: To and From) contains thirty works that form the Italian nucleus of the Jacquemart-André museum in Paris. They were sold to Nélie Jacquemart at the end of the nineteenth century by the antiquarian Stefano Bardini, and this is the first time they have returned to Florence. Mantegna, Botticelli, Paolo Uccello and other big names are part of this exquisitely displayed temporary show. Bardini was one of the turn of the century art dealers that is responsible for a great loss of Italy’s artistic patrimony to France, England and the United States.

A highlight of the collection is St. George and the Dragon by Paolo Uccello. It depicts the saint on a bucking horse, driving a lance into a dragon while a not particularly distressed damsel looks on. As art historian Alexandra Korey says, “Uccello was obsessed with perspective, and here he uses plots of farmed land to create a perspectival grid and give a (rather artificial) sense of depth. Look closely and you will spot, in the background, a cardinal (in red) speaking animatedly with two other figures.”

One room in this small exhibit is dedicated to these works of Botticelli, including a large tondo of the Virgin and Child and a panel from 1510 representing the Flight into Egypt.

Just four small rooms hold these works of art, but the admission price of 8 euro (6 euro for members of various associations, including those with a Coop card) also gains you access to the Capucci artistic clothing design exhibit on the top of the villa.

Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2, www.bardinipeyron.it

WHILE YOU ARE AT VILLA BARDINI – See Roberto Capucci’s Fabulous Fashions

The Capucci Museum at Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2

Fashion designer Roberto Capucci creates strikingly colorful and fluid garments. Using fabrics ranging from silk, taffeta and velvet to organza and georgette, Capucci experiments with the ways materials can be formed, draped and sculpted, so that they glide over the body or form stiff waves, swirls, frills and pleats. This exhibit displays 27 of the Italian designer’s best creations. See www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com for more.



On November 1, 2, 8 and 9, Scarperia is the place to be. This medieval village in the Mugello area north of Florence will host two weekends of festivities honoring one of their local specialties, the Tuscan white truffle. Buy truffles to experiment with at home. Taste Tagliolini with truffles, Bistecca with truffles and Tortelli Mugellani (pasta stuffed with potato filling). The fun goes until midnight, Saturday from 5:00 pm and Sunday from 11:00 am. Tel. 055 8468142/20, 338 255643.

The return on Nov. 7 to 10 for the Motor Fest – Car Edition at the famed Scarperia race track.

See www.mugellocircuit.it for information.


Sat. 16 and Sun. 17, starting at 10:00am, in Borgo San Lorenzo, you have another chance to taste and buy the local white truffles found in the Mugello area. The town’s historical center hosts stands and local restaurants will present special truffle menus. At Villa Pecori Giraldi there will be truffle hunt demonstrations, wine and vinsanto tastings and dinners. Info: 055 8456230. Info: tel. 055 8457053 - assotartufi@tiscali.it - www.tartufaimugello.it

WORLD WAR II MEMORIAL – Trekking along the Gothic Line

Join in to remember the hardship and strength of the Italians living along the Gothic Line in the winter of 1944. A group will be trekking along the mountainous boundary on November 15, 16 and 17. Information can be found on http://www.mugellotoscana.it/icalrepeat.detail/2013/11/15/2650/15-and-1711-excursion-on-the-gothic-line.html.


Next year the Chianti Sculpture Park will be ten years old. For the first time since it was opened, the Park will increase the price of admission. From January 2014 tickets will cost 10 Euro (currently €7.50). However, tickets for children under sixteen, will remain unchanged at 5 Euro.

The Park wishes to point out that it has never received any public funding, and that all entrance fees go to the non-profit cultural association AMICI DEL PARCO for maintenance and promotional activities.

For groups of at least 12 people the entrance fee includes the guided tour in Italian, English, German or French. For individual visitors or small groups a multimedia guide can be rented at 3 Euro. Alternatively, the visitors can download the application ChiantiPark directly on their mobile phone or tablet from Apple Store and Google Play Store.

There is one more reason that makes a trip to Pievasciata even more interesting for tourists: the project Pievasciata, hamlet of contemporary art. It shows the installation of a dozen art works in areas surrounding the Park. Eight sculptures have already been installed.

For photos and descriptions click here: www.chiantisculpturepark.it/pievasciatabac.htm

Check the web site for all the details: www.chiantisculpturepark.it


On Sun 10, enjoy the crisp Tuscan autumn and tour selected wineries open for tastings of their Vino Novello (the Tuscan version of Beaujolais) in celebration of Saint Martin. Young Novello wine, soft and fruity, may tease the palate, but also taste great older wines during this event sponsored by the Wine Tourism Movement.

Even if you are the designated driver, the special celebrations are a good excuse to spend the day outdoors in an intimate and cheerful atmosphere. The wineries welcome visitors by also offering art exhibitions, wine tasting in conjunction with local produce cooked according to traditional recipes, "lunch with the winemaker" and walks among the vineyards. Check individual wineries below for their ideas.

For more info: http://www.movimentoturismovino.it/it/eventi/5/cantine-aperte-a-san-martino/

Also check: http://www.italianwinesandfood.com/events-festivals-italy/tuscany

Corte di Valle, Via Vicchiomaggio 26, 50022 - GREVE IN CHIANTI Tel: 055 853939

Castello di Volpaia, Loc. Volpaia, 53017 - RADDA IN CHIANTI Tel: 0577 738619

Fattoria di Bacchereto - Terre a Mano, Via Fontemorana 179, CARMIGNANO Tel: 0573 750191

Fornacelle, www.fornacelle.it. Loc. Fornacelle 232/a, CASTAGNETO CARDUCCI - (Li), Tel: 0565 77555


TuscanTraveler’s Italian Food Rules written by Ann Reavis has been published! Find a copy at The Paperback Exchange at Via delle Oche, 4r, or at BM Bookshop, Borgo Ognissante, 4.

ITALIAN FOOD RULE: Tripe Is Tasty To Tuscans

Tripe (trippa) is what Americans coyly refer to as "variety meats" and what some Italian aficionados (especially Florentines) sometimes call the quinto quarto (fifth quarter) of the animal. Usually it refers the lining of one of the four chambers of a ruminant’s stomach, usually a young ox. But a trippaio (tripe butcher) will sell the bits and pieces of the qinto quarto of veal beef, and pork. Italians, especially Florentines, swear that trippa is one of the Italian delicacies that doesn’t get enough attention.

When properly cooked, Italians claim these meats are delicious – tender, mild yet flavorful, without being overtly fatty. Trippa alla fiorentina is the white honey comb muscle of the cow’s second stomach cooked in a rich tomato sauce, but the classic is the pannino di lampredotto – long-simmered, light purpley brown from the cow's fourth stomach served at lunchtime with either a salsa picante (hot chili flakes and olive oil) or a salsa verde (parsley, capers, garlic and anchovies, among other ingredients) at one of the specialist tripaio carts parked on sidewalks and in piazzas, especially in Florence. The true skill, learned young, is how to eat this dunked-bread sandwich with saucy meat without getting it on your shirt or tie. The “lapredotto lean” creates the right angle with plenty of napkins to wipe your chin.

For a change, an Italian might ask for poppa (udder -- cooked for nearly eight hours to melting tenderness) on toasted bread or nervetti (tendons – more texture than flavor) cooked in tomato sauce.

The home cook will stop by a favorite trippiao and find creamy white or russet mats of tripe from all four chambers of the beef’s stomach, dominating the glassed-in counter, accompanied by ears, hoofs, cheeks, muzzles, testicles, udders, kidneys and other internal and external body parts of pork, veal and beef. Although you will probably not be served tripe as a dinner guest in an Italian home, the number of trippai doing good business in the Italian food markets show that tripe is being dished out at many an Italian family lunch table.

Try a mezza porzione (half portion) at your favorite trattoria next time you want to be Italian for a day.


Invitation to Newsletter Readers & Friends:

The Pitcher & Flaccomio Newsletter would like to invite readers and friends of readers to submit announcements of upcoming events that may be of interest to visitors and residents of Florence and Tuscany, provide shopping tips, and/or comments on what’s “right” or “wrong” in Florence (or the Newsletter). We can’t promise to put every announcement in the newsletter, but we appreciate your support, interest and messages.

Please send an email to info@pitcherflaccomio.com or newsletter@pitcherflaccomio.com .


In November, Florence is packed full of cultural events, but make sure you partake of a bit Fiorentina Calcio to round out the last autumn days before the winter weather begins and the end-of-year holidays take up your time.

All the best,

Pitcher and Flaccomio